The Ruchè of Montalbera – Zosimo Wine Critic
A rare grape, a unique territory, a fragrant wine with gentle tannins and robust alcohol: the Ruchè of Montalbera.
Castagnole Monferrato, nestled in the heart of calcareous and dry lands, enjoys summer sunshine and spring breezes that craft wines of remarkable elegance.
We are in the Lower Monferrato, just a few kilometers from Asti towards Alessandria, along a hill ridge whose name recalls ancient chestnut forests. Today, these lands are dedicated to the art of winemaking.
Ruchè is one of the rarest and most indigenous grape varieties cultivated in this corner of Monferrato, where everything speaks of wine. Its charm and rediscovery date back about 60 years, thanks to a local priest named Don Giacomo Cauda. Born in 1927 and appointed parish priest of Castagnole Monferrato in 1964, Don Giacomo, a man of rural roots and a deep love for the land, found neglected vineyards within his parish. With his innate inclination, he embarked on the journey of the “vintner priest.”
Initially unfamiliar with Ruchè, Don Giacomo was captivated by the grape’s pleasant flavor and decided to vinify it in its pure form. Through early winemaking attempts and tasting sessions with his fellow villagers, he eventually restored a small vineyard of Ruchè. However, his community saw him merely as a dreamer—if not slightly mad—dedicating his time and even incurring debt to produce this
“May God forgive me,” Don Giacomo would say, “for sometimes neglecting my ministry to devote body and soul to the vineyard. I would finish Mass, change quickly, and jump on the tractor. But I know God forgave me, for with the earnings from the wine, I built the oratory and renovated the rectory.”
His vision transformed this region, leading to the Ruchè’s recognition as a DOC (Denomination of Controlled Origin) in 1987 and its elevation to DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) in 2010.
Don Giacomo’s intuition, driven by sheer determination rather than intent, revitalized a grape variety rumored to have existed in this area since the Middle Ages. It is believed to have been introduced by Cistercian monks from Burgundy in the 12th century. The story also intertwines with the lineage of Pope Francis, as the Ruchè is cultivated in the homeland of the pontiff’s father.
This unique land, with its sunny hills and diverse soils—clays, sands, and marls over calcareous and siliceous bases—allows each parcel to express distinct wine profiles.
The Morando Family and Montalbera
In the mid-1980s, the Morando family, deeply rooted in the region, embraced the tradition of Ruchè cultivation. They established a winery that has become a global symbol of Ruchè production.
Today, Montalbera represents 60% of the entire Ruchè production. Among the Monferrato hills, it showcases every nuance of this grape through diverse vinification techniques—from steel and wood aging to over-ripening and even raisining processes.
I had the privilege of tasting Montalbera’s most iconic wines. Here are my impressions:
La Tradizione
Aromatic Profile:
A bouquet of rose petals and violets captures the senses, with intense red fruit notes giving way to fresh, mineral, and herbaceous undertones.
Palate Analysis:
The wine’s warmth unfolds harmoniously, reaching every taste bud. It is long and intense, perfectly aligning with its aromatic promise. The glass flows easily, and with every sip, the wine’s intensity and uniqueness evoke unparalleled emotions.
Final Thoughts:
“La Tradizione” is a wine with great aging potential. Its steel vinification makes it highly approachable, instantly lovable, and enjoyable. Ideal for sharing with good friends around a table laden with meats, this bottle only grows in complexity over time, offering memorable and delightful sips.
Wine name – La Tradizione
Type – Red still
Grapes – Ruchè 100%
Certified – Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG
Alcohol – 14 %
Year – 2023
95 points ZWC (Gold Medal)
Laccento
Aromatic Profile:
With 20% of the grapes slightly overripe, this wine boasts intense red fruit aromas, nocturnal floral notes, and cherry jam. Its nose is captivating, inviting prolonged exploration of its fragrances.
Palate Analysis:
The wine’s strength lies in its vinification. It presents an energetic, direct, and rich palate with broad, intense nuances. Each sip enhances the experience, offering increasingly expressive and enjoyable sensations. The long and persistent finish calls for large glasses and good company.
Final Thoughts:
A standout wine, perfect for immediate enjoyment or aging. Though rich in alcohol, it is perfectly integrated. The passing years only enhance its complexity, revealing new, deeper notes with every bottle opened. It is the finest expression of the indigenous Ruchè, balancing freshness and body, harmony, and great potential.
Wine name – Laccento
Type – Red still
Grapes – Ruchè 100%
Certified – Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG
Alcohol – 14,5 %
Year – 2023
97 points ZWC (Gold Medal)
Il Fondatore
Aromatic Profile:
The nose immediately picks up spicy notes of black pepper and juniper, along with ripe red fruits. The elegant finish brings to mind a forest floor filled with blackberries, raspberries, and rebellious tobacco leaves. The aromatic profile is broad, fragrant, and intensely captivating.
Palate Analysis:
The harmony on the palate mirrors the promise of the nose. Each sip is long, intense, and well-balanced, delivering delightful sensations that linger in memory.
Final Thoughts:
Aging in French oak lends a refined and serious character to this indigenous Ruchè. Its strong but well-integrated alcohol content enhances its harmony, making it the perfect companion for grand occasions. A few years in the bottle will bestow this wine with the style, elegance, and uniqueness that true connoisseurs always seek.
Wine name – Il Fondatore
Type – Red still
Grapes – Ruchè 100%
Certified – Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG Riserva
Alcohol – 15 %
Year – 2021
98 points ZWC (Gold Medal)
